7 Most Common Structural Connectors Used in Wood Buildings: Every Hole Needs a Nail

Introduction

Wood construction relies on an army of metal connectors to move gravity, wind, and seismic loads safely through every joint. The following guide walks through the seven connector families you will meet on almost every jobsite and shows how to install them so every hole does its share of the work.

1. Joist and beam hangers - the everyday workhorse

Joist hangers are the connector you’ll spot most often on site. Fine Homebuilding calls them “probably the most common metal connector on a construction site.” To see how hangers fit into the wider connector family, Simpson Strong-Tie’s common structural connectors guide lays out hangers alongside bases, caps, straps, and ties, making it easy to match each joint with the right hardware.

Face-Mount Joist Hanger Installed on Ledger with Fully Seated Joist

What a hanger does

1. Full bearing. It seats the joist or rafter so gravity flows into the ledger, header, or girder.
2. Lateral restraint. Side flanges and angled fasteners stop roll-over and resist uplift - vital on windy decks and cantilevers.

Three job-site families

• Face-mount hangers nail to the ledger and dominate decks and standard floors.
• Top-flange models sit flush with I-joists or laminated veneer lumber (LVL) so finished floors stay level.
• Concealed hangers tuck inside the beam for clean, exposed-timber ceilings.

Choose the right model by matching four numbers: carried-member width/depth, supporting-member material, required download/uplift, and the exact nail or structural-screw pattern in the evaluation report. Miss any one and the tested strength disappears.

Installation checklist

• Seat the joist tight; lab tests limit the joist-to-header gap to 1/8 inch.
• Drive only the listed nails or SD screws - never drywall or deck screws.
• Make sure hanger height equals at least 60 % of joist depth unless web stiffeners are detailed.
• Double-check top-flange layouts before the subfloor goes down; a mis-set flange telegraphs through finished flooring.

Why hangers sit at No. 1 is simple math: a 2,400-square-foot home can need 150 + hangers, each rated (ESR-3096) for up to 3,880 lb of download when fully fastened. That’s peace of mind for pennies.

Next up: structural wood screws - the fasteners that often double as connectors.

2. Structural wood screws - fastener and connector in one

On today’s jobsites, the rat-a-tat of an impact driver has replaced most hammer blows. That sound tracks the rise of structural screws.

Structural screws fit three main roles:

• Listed connector screws: short, stout, and approved to replace nails in specific hardware.
• Stand-alone structural screws: join wood to wood, such as ledger-to-rim or multi-ply beams.
• Long, fully threaded timber screws: stitch glued laminated beams (glulam) or cross-laminated timber (CLT) and disappear inside the wood.

Why you reach for screws: speed, higher withdrawal strength, and smaller surface holes. These benefits matter on exposed timber and in cramped cavities. But “structural” on the box is not a blank check. Design values live in the evaluation report and in the 2024 NDS. Table 12.2B lists reference withdrawal for #10 screws at 130 to 200 pounds per inch of thread, depending on species. Change the diameter, length, or coating and the published load disappears.

Four must-check variables

1. Diameter and length set shear and withdrawal strength.
2. Embedment: too little bite means no purchase.
3. Angle: some ledger screws rely on paired 45-degree installation.
4. Coating: choose G185 or stainless for treated wood and coastal exposure.

Common field mistake

Dropping a generic deck screw into a joist hanger because the shank fits. The hanger was never tested with that screw, and inspectors will flag it. Use only the nails or listed connector screws printed in the hanger table.

At the heavy-timber end, 20-inch screws still need a pilot hole and a torque-controlled driver. Over-driving heats the shank, weakens thread bite, and can snap the head.

Structural screws shine where access is tight or the wood is too valuable to scar with bolts. Treat them as precision hardware, not convenience fasteners, and they will carry loads quietly for decades.

Next up: framing angles and hurricane ties - the tiny clips that keep roofs on when the wind howls.

3. Framing angles and hurricane ties - small clips, big load path

A continuous load path looks neat on paper; on site it lives or fails by a handful of stamped-steel clips that link roof to wall. The 2024 IBC, Section 2304.10.7, requires those clips to carry uplift through every joint.

These parts are tiny, often the size of a business card, yet each one grabs the rafter or truss on one side and the top plate on the other, passing roof suction to studs and then to the foundation. Miss a single required fastener and the chain breaks.

Three common shapes

• H-series hurricane ties twist so one leg nails to the rafter and the other to the adjacent plate.
• Straight angles lie flat where geometry is square.
• Twist straps reach farther, bridging offsets or doubling as drag ties.

Choose by math, not by shape: match your calculated uplift to the published allowable load, confirm the legs reach solid wood, and fill every required hole. Example: an H2.5A provides up to 600 lb of allowable uplift, while an H10A reaches 1 140 lb, nearly double, even though both fit a 2× rafter (ESR-2613 table).

Installation is quick but unforgiving. Orient the clip exactly as the catalog drawing shows; flipping it can cut capacity in half. Drive nails or listed screws fully. If the clip sits over sheathing, use the longer fastener length so points reach the stud.

Cost is small, so adding extras feels safe, yet keep symmetry. Over-fastening one side of a ridge without matching the other only moves the weak link.

When the forecast calls for a coastal storm, well-placed hurricane ties keep the roof where it belongs, moving every gust through a code-approved path to ground.

4. Holdowns and deck tension ties - when shear walls and ledgers pull apart

Gravity squeezes wood together, but wind and quakes try to peel it apart. Holdowns and deck tension ties stop that peel.

Inside a shear wall, a holdown bolts the end stud to the foundation with a threaded rod. When lateral shear tries to overturn the wall, the holdown sees pure tension. On a deck, a similar device ties the outer joist back to the house frame. The 2024 IRC calls for two 1 500-pound devices within two feet of each deck end, or four 750-pound devices spread along the deck.

Numbers matter. ESR-2330 lists an HDU5 holdown at roughly 5 645 pounds of allowable tension, while an HDU2 tops out near 3 075 pounds. Swap models and you lose almost half the capacity. Published values assume the exact anchor diameter, edge distance, and steel grade in the report; undersize any piece and the concrete can split before the steel yields.

Installation checklist

1. Drill the sill plate and concrete for the specified anchor.
2. Set the anchor or wet-set rod before the concrete cures.
3. Slip the holdown over the rod, add a bearing plate if required, and torque the nut.
4. Re-check nut tightness after the frame dries; use shrinkage take-up washers where plans call for them.

Common pitfalls

• Rod too close to the slab edge lets the concrete fail first.
• Substituting lag screws through a ledger offers no tested tension value.
• Forgetting symmetry on deck ties shifts the load path to the weaker side.

Expect to spend $40 to $60 per device once you add rod and epoxy. Investing in listed hardware costs less than a field repair and helps you sleep well.

Next: post bases and caps - the connectors that stop moisture and uplift from knocking columns off their feet.

5. Metal truss connector plates - the hidden million-soldier army

Walk into any roof-truss plant and you hear the steady thunk of a press driving galvanized plates, each one bristling with thousands of teeth, into intersecting chords. Multiply that sound by every truss joint in a house and you see why the American Wood Council calls metal-plate-connected trusses the predominant U.S. roof system (AWC Truss FAQ, 2025).

A truss plate is a thin steel sheet, yet its tooth layout, plate area, and press force are calculated by software that follows ANSI/TPI 1-2022. Selection happens at the factory; when the bundle reaches your site, plate size and allowable joint capacity are printed on the truss design drawing.

Field rules - few, but important

• Keep plates undamaged. Bent teeth or lifted corners cut strength; a hammer tap is not an approved fix.
• Never add retail “mending plates.” They lack the tested tooth geometry.
• Lift trusses correctly. Slings under panel points beat hooks in web bays and prevent reverse bending of joints.

Corrosion is minor inside a dry attic, yet coastal zones justify G185 or stainless coatings. Plates placed in humid plenums need a sealed deck or spray-foam barrier to keep condensation off the steel.

Cost per plate is pennies, but the payoff is large: a common 40-foot fink truss rated for 4,000 lb of snow load may rely on more than 50 plates sharing the work. Lose even one and forces redistribute unpredictably.

Inspectors rarely ask framers to touch truss plates; that strength is baked in at the plant so field crews can focus on bearing, bracing, and proper hanger installation.

Our final connector class wears a different uniform: thin, flexible straps that tie walls and floors into a continuous spine.

6. Straps and structural splice plates - the flat, flexible fixers

When joists run past a bearing line or a wall top splits at a hallway, long steel straps serve as tension belts: thin, wide, and drilled for rows of nails or listed screws.

Common shapes

• Straight straps tie two members in line.
• Twist straps turn ninety degrees to land on a rafter heel or blocking.
• Coil or roll straps unspool to any length, ideal for continuous ties across several studs or floor trusses.

Selection turns on four numbers: gauge, width, total length, and development length at each end. For example, an LSTA12 strap (12 inches long, 20 gauge) needs five 10d nails per end to reach its 930 lb allowable tension. Cut it short or skip a nail and capacity drops fast.

Installation is simple but repetitive: dozens of fasteners driven in a precise pattern. A positive-placement nailer earns its keep. Swapping to structural screws? Check the ESR first; some light-gauge straps forbid screws because threads can tear the hole.

Corrosion rules follow the surrounding framing. Interior, dry locations need only standard galvanizing, while exterior treated lumber calls for at least G185 or stainless per IBC 2304.10.1. Never field-bend a strap unless the catalog drawing shows an approved radius.

Straps cost just a few dollars yet solve framing problems that big brackets cannot. Keep a roll in your trailer; you will appreciate it the next time a plumber cuts a little too much out of a top plate.

Does every connector hole really need a nail?

Short answer: yes. You must fill every required hole with the fastener listed in the table. Simpson’s general notes put it plainly: “Fill all fastener holes with fastener types specified in the tables, unless otherwise noted.”

Connector makers punch three basic hole shapes:

• Round holes - always mandatory unless the schedule labels them optional or maximum.
• Diamond or triangle holes - guide the first nails so the part stays aligned.
• Slotted (obround) holes - accept bolts or screws where the joint must slip for shrinkage or seismic drift.

Skip one required fastener and the load shifts to its neighbors; on a hanger seat that can double their shear and drop capacity below code. Use the wrong diameter and it is no better; a drywall screw snaps long before a 10d common nail yields.

Fast inspection checklist

• Confirm the connector model and dimensions.
• Verify fastener brand, diameter, and length match the report.
• Make sure all required holes are filled; heads should sit flush and the wood must not split.
• Look for over-driven screws or clipped nail heads and replace them.
• Check for a compatible coating when you work with preservative-treated lumber.

How to choose the right wood construction connector

Begin with the members you’re joining, not the catalog. Identify wood species, size, and load direction first, and let those facts guide every choice that follows.

Ask yourself seven quick questions:

1. Which members meet? Joist-to-ledger, beam-to-post, rafter-to-plate, or wall-to-foundation.
2. What loads cross the joint? Compression, shear, withdrawal, uplift, or a mix.
3. How much force? Refer to span tables, software, or an engineer’s calculation.
4. What dimensions matter? Member depth, thickness, and anchor edge distances.
5. Can you reach it with tools? Tight bays may rule out long nails; screws often win there.
6. What environment surrounds it? Interior dry, exterior treated, coastal salt, or pool chemicals.
7. Does the plan or code need a listed assembly? If yes, match connector and fastener exactly to the current evaluation report (ICC-ES “fill all holes” note).

Run that checklist and you’ll cut thousands of options down to the few that truly fit. When in doubt about altered trusses, moment frames, or high-seismic zones, call the engineer. The phone call costs less than a field repair every time.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use deck screws in a joist hanger? No. Hangers are tested with specific nails or listed connector screws. A generic deck screw has a smaller shank and brittle heat-treat; it fails long before the published load.

Can structural screws replace a joist hanger? Only if the screw manufacturer supplies an evaluation report for that exact connection. A ledger screw in shear is not the same as a hanger seat carrying download and uplift.

Do beams have to sit on top of posts? Prescriptive framing expects full bearing. Side-mounting a beam needs an engineered moment connection or a through-bolt plus seat plate detailed by the designer.

How many holdowns does my deck need?

• Two devices rated 1 500 lb each, placed within 2 ft of the deck ends, or
• Four devices rated 750 lb each, spaced along the deck.

Which finish works with pressure-treated lumber? Follow both the wood-treatment and connector instructions. If guidance is missing, choose at least G185 hot-dip galvanized or stainless, especially near the coast or a pool.

Can I bend a strap around a corner? Only if the catalog shows an approved bend radius. Many straps lose capacity when bent in the field.

Is a loose truss plate a simple fix? No. Call the truss manufacturer for a repair detail; flattening the plate with a hammer can crack teeth and void the engineered joint.

Can connectors be reused? No. Pulling nails enlarges holes and deforms the steel. Treat connectors as single-use unless the manufacturer says otherwise.

When should I call an engineer? Bring in a structural pro for altered trusses, narrow shear walls, unusual skews, multi-story rod systems, or any connection not covered by a prescriptive table.

Conclusion

Metal connectors may look small, but each one is a tested solution that completes the load path. Match the hardware to the calculation, fill every required hole, and respect the details in the evaluation report. Do that, and wood structures will stand strong against gravity, wind, and time.